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28 February 2010

Qype: Library Theatre in Manchester



Manchester - Arts & Entertainment - Theatres


I cannot remember all the names of the great and well-known actors who graced the stage of the Library Theatre, but I know that Alan Rickman was one of them. The theatre is located at the lower ground floor of Manchester Central Library and regularly brings some of the best plays to the Mancunian public. Most recently, they staged Bertolt Brecht's Good Person of Szechwan and the new adaptation of the Grimm tales by the newly crowned Poet Laureate, Carol Ann Duffy. I personally went there to see All of My Sons and The Price by Arthur Miller, and a poignant drama The Real Thing by Tom Stoppard.

The great thing about the Library Theatre is that you can actually come in for a rehearsal. I have never done this before, although I'd love to! As far as the sound and all the usual characteristics of a theatre go, the Library Theatre is certainly not huge. It is an intimate space, which possibly is ideal for such serious dramas, as Miller's plays.

And on the food side, while everything is good as far as the theatre buffet goes, I'm the rare one for their Welsh ice-cream!

Check out my review of Library Theatre - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Broom and Spade in Manchester



Manchester


For the lack of better word, I call this composition "The Monument to Cleanliness". There is no plaque gracing the pedestal, on which is mounted a massive broom. By the side of the pedestal stands a spade. For a poetic soul this will be the place where God left his cleaning instruments and went in for a curry and a pint. And naturally, forgot to go back to collect them.

Jokes aside, this seems to be one of the least known landmarks in Manchester. It stands just across the road from the former post office in Thomas St, and is hard to ignore. But it seems to have assimilated with the rest of the street to such extent that it's become a natural and hence unimportant part of it. Sadly so, I think.

Check out my review of Broom and Spade - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Caffe Nero in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Cafes & Coffee Shops


This has to be my favourite Caffe Nero in Manchester! I've been to many, but none seems to strike the cord with me apart, maybe, from CN by Piccadilly train station.

Location is one huge plus here. It is simply beautiful to sit at the tall tables by the window and watch Cross St, while drinking your espresso. Or to find a place in that cosy corner to the right where you can sink in leather armchairs.

What I especially like about this Caffe Nero is that it kind of falls into several parts; however the division is only nominal, there are no barriers anywhere. There is a space to the left of the door where you can sit on tall chairs; there is a space to the right, with leather sofas; walk up a couple of steps, and you are in the area that is divided from the other two by the bar. This latter space is often used by businessmen for their meetings.

This Caffe Nero is best visited in the morning when Cross St is not too busy. You will be looking at Eagle House, in particular; and Cross St is one of architecturally impressive streets in Manchester city centre. Towards lunch it gets busier, of course, and the next best time to come hither is after 4pm, especially in the winter season when the night settles earlier.

They always do a good selection of cakes and sandwiches, and their coffee is simply the best. In Cross St they offer you booklets telling more about the history of Caffe Nero, coffee, and different caffeinated drinks they can make for you. This is useful if you wondered how many espresso shots are used to make a latte or a macchiato.

Check out my review of Caffe Nero - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Speakers House in Manchester



Manchester


Tucked between a travel agent and an outlet that keeps changing hands is the entrance to Speakers House. This multistoried building was erected on a bomb site that was used after the war as an equivalent to Hyde Park's 'speakers corner'. By 1963, it seems, city authorities decided that freedom of speech needs not to take up too much space, and so Speakers House went up.

Back in the day the building used to house the American Express offices. Nowadays it is occupied by marketing and media companies, and must be a typical example of 1960s architecture. Interestingly enough, the Mancunian population seem to be all but oblivious to its existence. Considering that before the building there used to be a soapbox, can it be that this is how - with indifference - we also treat our rights?

Speakers House is found at the top end of Deansgate. If you are turning from St Mary's Gate, the glass entrance to the building is currently between Kayoo Travel and Ladbrokes. And if you walking in Deansgate past Moon in the Water, Speakers House is on the opposite side of the road, facing Tesco and Travel Finder.

Check out my review of Speakers House - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Adrift Monument in Manchester



Manchester


Adrift is a 1907 group by the Irish-born sculptor, John Cassidy (1860-1939). The monument used to be in Platt Fields Park (just like Abraham Lincoln statue that is now in Lincoln Square), but has recently been moved to St Peter's Square. It can be found practically between the Central Library and Town Hall extension.

The original plaque explains the meaning of this moving work:

'Humanity adrift on the sea of life, depicting sorrows and dangers, hopes and fears and embodying the dependence of human beings upon one another, the response of human sympathy to human needs, and the inevitable dependence upon human aid' (J. Cassidy).

Being me, I cannot help but make an observation. You see, the entire sculpture faces the metrolink and a bus stop. With all the changes to tram lines in the last few years, as well as the regular liver-venting of other public transport users, it is hard not to notice a certain irony in what monument is being placed, and where. Whether in the morning, afternoon or evening, half of the population of Greater Manchester is found adrift, at the mercy of engines and timetables, withstanding the impossible pressure of not opting in for a taxi, having given up the hope for a bus arriving on time.

I am not at all inviting us to read more into Cassidy's monument than there is. Trams were more of a dream than reality in 1907, as well as buses. But every time I go past the sculpture on the bus, I realise that it means more to me. I am sure the city authorities will see my point and introduce changes to the public transport service. I hope they don't decide that the easiest thing to do is to move the monument...

Check out my review of Adrift Monument - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

26 February 2010

Qype: The Old Wellington Inn & Restaurant in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Restaurants


I studied Tudor History, so to me The Old Wellington has always been THE place. I've always loved it, even before I started visiting it quite regularly. I go there now and again on my own, as well as with friends, and am likely to visit this weekend because I've not been for a while, and I miss it.

But frankly, one needs not to be an historian to understand how great it is to sit inside the inn that existed already in 1550s. To touch that old timber and wooden nails. To watch the lighted facade of Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, and people drinking in the yard between Old Wellington, Sinclair's, and Mitra. Whether you are drinking wine or beer, the feeling of descending into the depth of history is complete.

I've tried different dishes from their menu (mainly traditional English, but they offer a risotto, too), and my favourites are meat platter, risotto, and Shepherd pie. They do good ice-cream, but an apple pie with custard is just the right order to round off the lovely meal.

The very top floor is sometimes closed for visitors, but if you do get the chance to go there, certainly do. There is nothing like sitting under the timber roof that was assembled and reassembled a few times, or having to walk under a low beam, short of accidentally banging your head against it. I love bringing friends there, or just casually talking to people who, like me, enjoy their food and drinks.

The wine list always has good selection, but I often browse their beer list for some seasonal favourites. Sadly, they don't always stock my choice, but I usually find a good substitute in some form of a silky smooth bitter.

Check out my review of The Old Wellington Inn & Restaurant - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Waterstone's Booksellers in Manchester



Manchester - Shopping - Books - Shopping - Books - Waterstone's


Upon my word, today I have bought a book at Waterstone's. And I have bought a plenty of books at different branches over the last 6.5 years. I've shopped at Waterstone's in London, Carmarthen, Llandudno, and Bolton, as well as Manchester Arndale and in Trafford Centre, but it is primarily Waterstone's in Deansgate that makes my heart beat faster.

Their best selections, as far as I am concerned, are centered on Literature, Cinema, Photography and Art, Business, and Personal Development. The book I bought today is on the latter subject; but in the past I've been bringing home the classic novels, books on films, dictionaries and language guides, and a plenty of other stuff that now makes my flat look like a miniature British Library.

The great thing about this particular Waterstone's is its location. The main entrance and exit is on Deansgate, but you can always sneak through the back door and find yourself in St Ann's Square. And while you are in the store you can browse shelves and flick through the books at the same time as you observe people and traffic from the window.

Costa Coffee that has long partnered with Waterstone's is located on the top floor, and makes for a good stop after intensive shelf-browsing. Last but not least, this particular branch regularly hosts meetings with authors and celebrities; last year they greeted Ken Loach and Guillelmo del Toro. Keep your eye on the printed announcements at the counter when you pay for your books.

Check out my review of Waterstone's Booksellers - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Simple Bar in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Pubs & Bars - Bars


Simple was one of the first Manchester bars I visited, it was in 2006, and it happened thanks to Futuresonic annual festival. Since then I've been there quite a few times, and even celebrated their 7th birthday in 2008.

For food they offer a good selection of pizzas, and drinks at the bar never disappoint. They also squeeze fresh orange juice for the healthiest of us.

I've always loved Simple's interior. It is fairly laid-back but stylish, and their outdoor seating may be the symbol of what Northern Quarter is about. You are in the busy street and yet sufficiently above the maddening noise. You are in a trendy place but everyone is chilling out. You can be yourself and enjoy the company and drinks. What more can you wish for?

Better yet, Simple is one of those places in Manchester who cleverly utilise the power of Social Media. They accumulate fans and keep them updated with the help of Facebook, as well as spread the word about special offers, happy hours, and seasonal events.

Located at the bottom end of Tib Street (close to city centre), Simple is easy to find. They have Affleck's Palace and Hedonist hairdressers for the neighbours, as well as a few adult shops and a Birkama Yoga studio. However you may like to think about it, it is a very well located bar, as Simple as that.

Check out my review of Simple Bar - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Didsbury Piccolino in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Restaurants


Piccolino in Didsbury is to be found in a busy street under the lovely name of Lapwing Lane. It is a trendy, if not posh, place to wine and dine in Italian style. I had a Christmas meal there in 2008 with a few friends, we had a huge table, and were served by the real Italian staff. Let's face it: after traditional English chippies run by Chinese ladies and popular Italian restaurants where waiters and cooks are British one has to make a notice of a place where it all suddenly comes together: Italian food - Italian staff.

They served us olives and ciabattas for a starter, and I personally opted in for a mushroom risotto, which was delicious, especially accompanied by white wine. Thanks to festive time, the restaurant was busy, but the service was impeccable. Oh, and coffee was awesome!

Check out my review of Didsbury Piccolino - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Kro Bar in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Pubs & Bars - Bars


The original Kro Bar is located just opposite The University of Manchester Student Union, and is always packed with students and academics alike. Everyone enjoys a pint or cuppa, after all...

I have drunk and eaten on both floors, as well as in beer garden, and the rooms on the top floor have to be my favourite. I love their leather sofas, wooden tables, large windows, and high ceilings. The view from the window may not be the most spectacular one, but on a summer evening, when there are not many students around, there is something lovely about watching the not-so-busy Oxford Road.

They do good coffees, and in the morning and early afternoon there is usually a good selection of cakes. As far as food goes, they offer a mix of traditional English and Italian choices on their menu. I personally love their pasta and mussels, with a glass of crisp white wine.

Check out my review of Kro Bar - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: St Johns Gardens in Manchester



Manchester


Where there is St James's Park in London, there is St John's Gardens in Manchester. This small and cosy public garden, tucked between Museum of Science and Industry, Quay St, and Deansgate, was created on the place of St John's Church and burial ground. The site of the demolished church and 20,000 buried people is marked by a small monument at the park's entrance.

The park is discreet enough to remain unnoticed for those who only walk in big streets. It is best accessed from Lower Byrom Street that runs past MOSI, between Liverpool Road and Quay Street. St John's Gardens are particularly serene in summer and early autumn when roses bloom. Apparently, they practise tai chi there informally, but I've never seen it, so cannot testify. The gardens, however, should provide some inspiration to those interested in the old Manchester and ghost stories. At any moment of your walking in the park or frolicking on the grass, there are the remains of 20,000 people underneath you. The concept of vain life has never come to life so amply!

Check out my review of St Johns Gardens - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Victoria Park in Salford



Salford


Victoria Park in Swinton used to be occupied by the now extinct Swinton Old Hall. Interestingly, not far from the park there is a private house that used to be a part of the estate. I doubt they let casual visitors in; as for me, I was lucky enough to visit the house with a friend of mine. The dining room downstairs preserves the original wooden beams and a bit of decor that dates back to the first half of 18th c.

The land was purchased by the Borough of Swinton and Pendlebury and converted into a park in 1897. An impressive bandstand commemorates the 60th anniversary of the reign of Queen Victoria.

These days there are tennis courts and children's playground. Close to the part is a private nursery, and it is easily accessible on foot from Swinton Shopping Precinct, or by buses 12, 36, and 37 (among a few others). The park is by no means huge, but is a lovely place to walk on a lazy afternoon.

Check out my review of Victoria Park - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

22 February 2010

Qype: Albert Square in Manchester



Manchester


Manchester was granted the status of the city in 1853, and by that time the city centre had already attracted some criticism. Like the Russian St. Petersburg was build on the marshy grounds, so was Manchester's Albert Square created on the spot of slums. And just like St. Petersburg in Russia, it has become the refined and popular focal point of the city. Its cobbles, monuments, the fountain and the Town Hall in Gothic style all together make Albert Square an impressive public space.

The reconstruction began in 1866, and the centerpiece was the Albert Memorial. It was designed by Thomas Worthington, the same student of John Ruskin's ideas who worked on the Old Crown Court in Minshull St. The square houses the old Town Hall, the Jubilee Fountain, and several statues. It is flanked by Cross St and Princess St, and can be accessed and photographed from various side streets.

In the recent years Albert Square has been the regular venue for Christmas fair as well as some festivals. In 2009 it played the host to the Manchester International Festival Pavilion, the Arts biennale.

Check out my review of Albert Square - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Sackville Gardens in Manchester



Manchester


A home to The Beacon of Hope, Tree of Light, and Alan Turing, and a regular venue for diverse and sundry Gay Village events, Sackville Gardens originated in 1880s. The City Council was so impressed with the Technical School building across the road (the present UMIST) that the decision was made to create a park from which to view the edifice (very splendid indeed).

The gardens are accessed from Canal Street via the entrance in Sackville Street, or from Whitworth Street. The land is separated from Canal St by, well, the canal. The gardens are particularly attractive in spring and summer, and naturally, are one of the favourite sunbathing spots in Manchester city centre.

Check out my review of Sackville Gardens - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Barbirolli Square in Manchester



Manchester


This is a refined introduction to the Bridgewater Hall, Manchester's prime venue for music events. Halle Orchestra performs here, and early in 2009 Bridgewater Hall was graced by the world-known, Oscar-winning French composer, Michel Legrand, who was accompanied on his tour by Alison Moyet.

The square sits right opposite GMex, with views on Hilton Hotel, The Great Northern Tower, and The Midlands Hotel. It is named after Sir John Barbirolli, the renowned conductor whose bust marks the entrance to the Bridgewater Hall.

The Barbirolli Building houses different offices, and between it and the concert hall is a gigantic Pebble weighing 18 ton - a marble sculpture by the Japanese artist, Kan Yasuda (said to be worth £20,000).

The square is paved in York stone, with bands of granite.

Check out my review of Barbirolli Square - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

21 February 2010

Qype: The Greater Manchester Police Museum in Manchester



Manchester - Arts & Entertainment - Landmarks


The history of Greater Manchester Police is consecrated to Newton Street where the police headquarters used to be located in the Victorian era. The entrance decor is a fine testament to that time. However, today the museum sits rather unassumingly amidst the bustling wholesale fashion shops and a Newton Street post office.

You will be taken back to the years when Manchester was lit by gas lamps, inhabited by immigrants, and plagued by street crime. On display in the museum are the police uniform and paraphernalia, while the fans of forensic science will delight in several blood-chilling stories. As befits any museum of this type, there is an example of a prison cell, complete with a wooden pillow. Truly, it was hard to be a criminal in the 19th century.

Admission is free, and the museum site states that photography for non-commercial purposes is permitted.

Check out my review of The Greater Manchester Police Museum - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Robert Peel Monument in Manchester



Manchester


The native of Bury, and the son of a rich calico manufacturer, Sir Robert Peel was the 19th c. Prime Minister whose long-lasting mark on the British history was in the form of a nickname for policemen. Peel was the driving force behind the Metropolitan Police, and for a long time policemen were affectionately called "bobbies" or "peelers". He also repealed the Corn Laws, to the great delight of common people, and despite the opposition of his party.

Peel tragically died in 1850 because of a horse-riding incident in Hyde Park in London. The Peel Memorial Committee of Manchester promptly collected over £3,000 in 4 days from the public, thus making the Robert Peel monument the first ever outdoor statue in Manchester raised by public subscription. The composition by William Calder Marshall was unveiled on October 12, 1853. Sir Robert stands on a high pedestal, flanked by two female figures. The right figure in a crown represents Manchester; the woman holds a spindle of yarn, and the Manchester coats of arms. The left figure represents Arts and Sciences.

The monument to Robert Peel stands in Piccadilly Gardens, practically opposite the entrance into Oldham Street.

Check out my review of Robert Peel Monument - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: King Street in Manchester



Manchester


Even back in the 18th c. King Street was about fashion, being developed as a hub of fashionable residence. Fastforward a couple of centuries, and King Street today is planted with diverse and sundry boutiques of the fashion names of different caliber, from Tommy Hilfiger, Mulberry, Hugo Boss, and Hermes, to the more high-street Jones the Bootmaker, Phase Eight, Monsoon, and All Saints. This stupendous list is occasionally intercepted with Boots pharmacy, Eat food store, Boodles the jewellers, and a passage to St Ann's Square.

The frontage of the former Virgin store (closer to Cross St) conceals the 1736 Dr Peter Waring's building, which was converted into a bank in 1788. This part of King St also boasts lovely cobbled pavement, and is particularly picturesque during Christmas season.

Another part that leads from Cross St up to Spring Gardens is marked by the grand buildings of the Lloyds Bank, the Ship Canal Building, and Pall Mall Court, among others. Apart from Whistles, this is a more haute-couture focused area, with Diesel, DKNY, and two Armani boutiques, as well as the signatures of the Westwood family: Agent Provocateur and the Vivienne Westwood boutique. In addition to being a mixture of "serious" business places and fashion, this part of King St provides an easy access to Market St and Arndale Centre, and to Albert Square and Town Hall.

King Street ends in a passage that runs between the office buildings, one of which is Pall Mall Court. On the ground level of one of them at different times were located a MaxMara boutique and a Patisserie Blanc restaurant of the Raymond Blanc family. Sadly, both are now extinct, although Bang & Olufsen are still ploughing through.

Last but not least, the part of King St between Cross St and Deansgate is pedestrian; the upper part is not, and is a stopping point on the route of a free shuttle bus #1. From this part, as well, it is easy to access the post office in Spring Gardens, the largest and most central post office in Manchester.

Check out my review of King Street - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

19 February 2010

Qype: Abraham Lincoln Monument in Manchester



Manchester


When the statue of Abraham Lincoln by the American sculptor George Barnard was finally unveiled in Platt Fields park in Rusholme, a Manchester Guardian critic observed that, while London had received Lincoln the president, Manchester had got Lincoln the man. Conceived as a token of friendship between the United States and Great Britain, the monument provoked a huge outcry in the US due to its "naturalism". The president who fearlessly fought against slavery was depicted in shabby clothes, with stooped shoulders and disheveled hair, and huge hands and feet. As much as this could be true to life, the public opinion both in America and in England objected to it with passion. The Guardian once again observed that this statue had set out the blind connoisseurs from the sighted better than any other work of art in the recent years.

Because the statue was primarily destined for London, the American side eventually sent to Britain a more conventional statue of Lincoln by Saint-Gauden. The statue by G. Barnard could land in Manchester, or Liverpool, or Norwich, and this is where the Manchester pride spoke up aloud. A visit from Woodrow Wilson helped, too, and the statue was transported to Manchester and was for several months kept in the fire station by Piccadilly.

The statue was first unveiled in August 1919 in Platt Fields Park, and the plan was to move it to Piccadilly later on. This never happened. Instead in 1980s the statue was moved to the newly redeveloped Queen St, between Deansgate and Albert Square, as a part of the plan to encourage and promote the public art. Whereas in Platt Fields it stood on the ground, here it was put on a higher pedestal, to avoid vandalism. And the redeveloped area was appropriately renamed into Lincoln Square.

Lincoln Square can be accessed from Deansgate, or from Albert Square via Brazenose Street.

Check out my review of Abraham Lincoln Monument - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Robert Owen Monument in Manchester



Manchester


The role of Robert Owen (1771-1858) in the history of Manchester and The Co-operative Group is impossible to underestimate. A native of Wales, he worked extensively in Lancashire and Scotland, with a short stint in the United States. Owen's biggest enterprises, both in business and philosophy, owe a great deal to his living in Manchester. Such central areas as St Ann's Square and London Road (by Piccadilly train station), as well as Ancoats, Chorlton, and Rochdale, are all marked by the work and thought of this great social reformer of the 19th c.

Owen's ideas and work were the foundation for the Rochdale Co-operative Society, which in its turn brought about the co-operative movement. It is therefore no wonder that Owen's statue is to be found exactly between the old and new headquarters of The Co-operative Group, on the corner of Balloon St. Renowned for his concern for child labour, Owen is seen protecting an orphaned girl.

Balloon St can be accessed from Corporation St, Victoria Train Station, or Shudehill Interchange.

Check out my review of Robert Owen Monument - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

14 February 2010

Happy Chinese New Year from Manchester Chinatown

This afternoon I went out to take some photos for the City Guardian project, and on my way back I joined the happy crowds celebrating the Metal Tiger New Year in Chinatown. Rather than filming people I chose to film the confetti on the ground...

Quand Tu Es La on St Valentine's Day




Today is a wonderful day: there is a New Moon, a Chinese New Year, and St Valentine's Day. The New Moon is the time of new beginnings, so I hope we all start something lovely and SMART at this time. I send my greetings to all readers in the Far East who celebrate the New Year, and to all of us who celebrate the New Year according to the Chinese calendar. Let this year be prosperous and mighty, like its totem, the Tiger. And last but not least, I wish love and happiness to all of us, and to that purpose here is a great song from Sylvie Vartan, Quand Tu Es La (When You Are Here). The song speaks about blue eyes, but I'm sure if we sing it for someone with green or brown eyes the meaning will stay the same.

(English translation is under the cut).

13 February 2010

Nudge, Nudge, You Know What I Mean (Monty Python)

English people are well-known for their eccentricity, and this trait does not seem to change much with time. This Monty Python sketch was made a few decades ago, but in my 6.5 years in the UK I've seen, or been involved in, a similar "nudge" scene quite a few times. It did not always take place in the pub, but it still happens in almost the same detail, as in this video. "I bet it does, I bet it does", to paraphrase what you're about to hear.


Monty Python - Nudge Nudge - Free videos are just a click away

Speaking about "what I mean" or better "you know what I mean". Both phrases are very widely used in exactly the same style. I love hearing it on the bus, usually from a woman who is on her way home from shopping, so she speaks to her friend on the phone:

"I went to that shop where we were last week, you know what I mean, and I finally got myself that pair of boots, you know, the ones that were brown, you remember, over the knee, 'cos they'll go well with my black dress 'cos they're high boots as well, you know what I mean".

But sometimes it's an English Premier League footballer who has to explain the team's loss, so he goes:

"Well, when you go in the game, you know, you always try to do the best, you know, and sometimes it doesn't happen straight away, you know what I mean, well, we've taken off some players, and, erm, brought in others, you know, but sometimes it's still not enough, if you know what I mean".

Whoever is listening, usually nods - even if they haven't got a clue. But you know what I mean, anyway.

12 February 2010

Architecture by Manchester Piccadilly

I took this photo last autumn, and offers an interesting perspective in the proper sense of the word: in the background is Manchester Crown Court in Minshull St. It was erected in 1867-73 by Thomas Worthington who adapted John Ruskin's principles to the design of this building. It is peculiar that the perspective almost guides us into the depth of time...

Qype: Sam's Chop House in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Pubs & Bars - Pubs


Want to imagine what life was like in England in the 18-19th cc.? Go no further than Sam's Chop House. Somehow it still conveys the feel of William Hogarth's paintings or Daniel Defoe's novels. As you go down the wooden stairs to the pub area and into the restaurant, you can almost see the scenes commemorated by the English genre painters. A romantic chat over a cup of tea with apple pie and custard, a political debate over a pint, or even a friendly brawl and TLC from an easy girl - all this could certainly happen at Sam's Chop House.

The fact that it is so central and traditional explains why the place is so often crowded. And the food is indeed amazing. Mushroom soup served in a bulky china pot with a crusty bread roll was only the beginning of my gastronomic escapade. It was followed by a delicious pork chop that was helped by a glass of red wine. At the table nearby a group of seven were enjoying their Sunday lunch. As my stomach was getting full with this wonderful traditional English cuisine, I felt more and more like one of those Hogarth's gentlemen, sitting and lazily observing others. I could compose a short treatise on the beauty of the English pub in the style of Laurence Sterne at that moment. I didn't because tea and custard pie arrived, and after that I went home and didn't feel hungry for the rest of the day. And in the meantime my creative spirit was fully subdued by the happiness of my stomach.

Seriously, this is one of the places in Manchester that must be visited. The fact that it is located in the basement only adds to its beauty, mystery, and popularity. And even though you have to march through the restaurant area to reach the toilets, it still doesn't distract from the overall experience. The good news is that Sam's Chop House is close to Exchange Square, St Ann's Square, and Albert Square. Which means that you can easily go for a pleasant sentimental journey in the Manchester city centre after one of the best traditional dining experiences.

Check out my review of Sam's Chop House - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

And Once Again about Tichborne's Elegy

I never asked English-speaking readers what or how they felt about Chidiock Tichborne's Elegy. It is a well-known poem, it was written by a 28-year-old Tudor guy on the eve of his execution for taking part in the Babington conspiracy against Elizabeth I, and is a tearful meditation on the brevity and fatality of life.

I suspect that it is the poem's melancholy and romantic feel that made it so popular among contemporary Russian translators. On the web one can find some 5 or 6 variations, all different. Nothing wrong with this, except one thing: the majority of attempts are based around external (=obvious) characteristics of the poem. Translators have found that "Elegy" consists of monosyllabic, Anglo-Saxon words. This obviously makes the poem very unique, and, because we're reading a Renaissance poem - and Renaissance is well-known for its fascination with symbols and riddles - the monosyllabic words are (mis)taken for an authorial intent. Tichborne was contemplating the brevity of life, and so he used monosyllabic words to emphasise the point.

There are two problems with such interpretation. First, even when we translate prose, we still miss out on certain symbolic features in the destination text. However good we are as translators, missing out is sometimes inevitable. In the end, even a written text is a rhetorical exercise, and therefore we still want to entertain the reader with our translation. If it closely follows the original text but is cumbersome and distasteful, then the reader will be tired, annoyed, and not at all pleased. This means that we cannot aim for a complete lexical equivalence in translation, but rather we should aim to translate something else.

Russian is my native language, which I know in depth, and yet even I would struggle to provide monosyllabic equivalents to all the English monosyllabic words in Tichborne's poem. And even if I did manage to find them all, the result would hardly possess any literary merit because I wouldn't see the forest for the trees, so to speak.

The second problem with putting too much emphasis on monosyllabic words in Tichborne's poem is that we're clearly trying to add to what is already contained in the poem. For some reason we are not satisfied with the fact that "Elegy" is about the fatality and shortness of one's life, so we think we must find that which would further stress this. Let's not think about the poem; let's look at what I've just said. "We think we must find that which would further stress this"; "let's not think about the poem"; "let's look at what I've just said". Correct me if I'm wrong but the majority of words in those phrases are monosyllabic. Because I am the living and breathing author of those phrases, I certainly declare that I didn't plan to use monosyllabic words to stress my point. The point is very simple: there are many monosyllabic words in the English language, and a lot of them happened to be used in Tichborne's "Elegy". Rather than assuming that Tichborne conspired (excuse the pun) to use monosyllabic words in his final poem, one should better look at this as a kind of linguistic peculiarity. It certainly adds to the poem's feel; but, as far as I am concerned, it cannot be viewed as the poem's most distinct feature, let alone to dictate how we should translate the poem.

As far as the Anglo-Saxon origin of the words goes, again I personally believe we're walking a useless extra mile in trying to establish the uniqueness of the poem. I think so purely because I am careful of not infusing the poem with my knowledge. This is the biggest disservice I can do to myself as translator and to my readers. The question on these occasions must not be "do I know these words are Anglo-Saxon?" but "did Tichborne know these words were Anglo-Saxon?" I bet the historic origin or the etymology of the words didn't matter to him in the hours before the execution. Someone may think differently but the question to ask is: would the origin of the words matter to you in Tichborne's circumstances?

I argued in a short essay in Russian about the complications of translating "Elegy" that it is actually a very easy poem to translate, thanks to the Russian lyrical tradition. Mysticism, melancholy, romantic troubles, forlorn love are what often distinguishes Russian poetry. Tichborne's "Elegy" could easily be written by a Romanticist poet like Lermontov, should he have found himself in prison awaiting execution. Given Lermontov's caliber as a poet, his contemplation would well exceed Tichborne's in literary merit, but in tone and mood it could be very similar.

Last but not least, the misfortunes of translators who tried to translate "Elegy" have entirely to do with the problem of identifying the context and the intent of the poem. I have already pointed out to the problem of context: we're placing the poem in the context of the language, whereas we must place it in the context of its own time. The themes of Tichborne's poem are the brevity of life, fatality, death, and the inevitability of punishment, however unjust and cruel. These very themes were widely discussed not only in contemporary literature, but were explored by painters. In my Russian text I compared the colours of "Elegy" to the palette of Tintoretto's "Marriage at Cana": the colours are rich but dim, as if covered by the 'frost of cares'. There is a similar kind of melancholy and sadness in Michelangelo's sonnets, and the whole topic of brevity of life was labeled vanitas in painting. Seen in this context, "Elegy" is a bridge between Renaissance exuberance and lust for life and Baroque melancholy, presented in a rather beautiful and peculiar lyrical form.

Tichborne's intent is quite easy to comprehend. It is known that he was practising poetry, so, in addition to a letter to his darling wife, what could be a better way to bid farewell to this earthy life? And the poem's intent has to do with the context in which we should read it. Again, this is not the context of the language, but of the time. Tichborne wasn't teaching us a lesson in the English language; he wasn't trying to tell us how many monosyllabic words there were in the English language, let alone how many of them were Anglo-Saxon. Instead, he suddenly found himself in a prison cell, and, given that he travelled to the Continent and obviously had the chance to view the works of Italian painters, all the images of vanitas, hour-clocks, and hovering deathly shadows rushed into his mind. If, like Dostoevsky in the 19th c, Tichborne was suddenly pardoned in 1586, "Elegy" could become a stepping stone for a poetic talent. Instead, it became the last and only manifestation of any literary promise. If Tichborne was indeed practising poetry during his life, then this poem also contains his understanding that he could no longer develop his gift, and this should have been distressing also. Therefore, when we translate "Elegy", we must strive to convey this emotional component of the original text. And, in case you wonder, this is exactly what I did.

Russian text

11 February 2010

Qype: Odd Bar in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Pubs & Bars - Bars


The first ever time I went to Odd Bad was in 2006 during Futuresonic Festival, and I owe to it one of the oddest experiences in my life. The now regular in-house project, Pukka, was debuting, and the DJ was planning on playing the soundtracks from Italian police movies and thrillers. To complement the set and make it a bit more special, they were going to screen extracts from some of those films on the screen downstairs. All excited, I headed there and found myself in a cozy room with several sofas. The screen was just above one of them, the extracts were already showing, and on the sofa right beneath a guy and a gal were sitting, embracing each other and kissing. They knew I wasn't watching them, and I knew I wasn't watching them, but it didn't make the situation any less awkward. Or odder, for that matter.

Pukka has become an in-house project, and in the years since I've visited the bar many times. To me, the place has always been unique mainly because of its location. There is something special about sitting with your feet up on those cozy sofas on the left, under a kind of canopy, drinking a cocktail or beer, and watching people in the street. Its atmosphere is peculiar, for it almost epitomises the word "atmosphere": it's many things at once, and the impression is always too fleeting to capture. And because I've got this strange interest in 1970s-1980s, Odd somehow evokes the spirit of these decades. The dim lighting, cheesy music, laid-back style, and the suspicion that there is more than meets the eye. Pukka must be a resident project for a reason.

It's not all about Pukka, though. There is a regular quiz, as well as a few other regular DJ sets. Beers and wines are good, and although I didn't eat there often I wasn't disappointed when I did order food. Last year Odd Bar hosted one of the stages of the launch of Havana Cultura website, in association with Havana Rum. It is frequented for a reason, and its popularity naturally puts off those who shun the crowds. But whether you are new to Manchester or have lived and breathed Northern Quarter for a number of years, then Odd is not so odd a choice. It's weird, strange, peculiar, different, original, quirky, and possibly even at odds with itself.

And I shall make no apologies for all the puns...

Check out my review of Odd Bar - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

08 February 2010

A Bicyclette

Манкунианцы обожают велосипеды. И не думайте, что велосипедами пользуются только студенты или богемные барышни. Даже вполне солидные служащие часть пути от дома до работы преодолевают на двухколесном коне. Когда я работала в Уоррингтоне в 2007 г., мне часто приходилось наблюдать, как спешащий на работу человек устраивал свой "велик" в дверях вагона, а сам шел переодеваться из спортивного костюма в деловой. "И из уборной выходил" (в прямом смысле) при галстуке и в туфлях.

Эта фотография была сделала осенью 2009 г., и запечатленные здесь велосипеды стоят в самой непосредственной близости к вокзалу. Британцы любят рассекать улицы a bicyclette, а иногда въезжают на них прямиком в магазин. Это редкость, но мне приходилось такое наблюдать.

Сама я на велосипеде не езжу. Было время, когда я успешно каталась на четырехколесном, а когда два задних колеса сняли, пропало и мое умение. С тех пор я кручу педали, лишь когда изредка посещаю спортзал.

Qype: Minshull Street Crown Court in Manchester



Manchester


There could hardly be an odder location and design for a court of law. Across the road from Manchester Crown Court is the (in)famous Essential, one of the loudest clubs in the city's Gay Village. As for its architecture and outside decor, the building was erected in 1867-73 by Thomas Worthington who was guided by John Ruskin's principles for architecture and design. Heavily influenced by European Gothic, this would rather be a museum, yet instead it is not uncommon to see journalists filming reports and judges in wigs smoking outside of the building.

The old building can be contemplated from Richmond St, Minshull St, and Bloom St. It is a sight for a photographer, art historian, or a fan of architecture and design. Those familiar with Italian architecture will quickly spot its influence in the design of the towers. The decor of the entrance, particularly the sculptures, are a lovely nod to Gothic style.

Like the Manchester Town Hall, the Crown Court was extended, and it is the modern brick-and-glass extension that greets visitors who arrive to Manchester Piccadilly. It is also surrounded by hotels like CityInn and Malmaison, and for those who have to stay in Manchester and to attend the court the location could not be any more convenient. And, in spite of its actual purpose, the building is a pleasant view to cast your eye on, while drinking coffee at Caffe Nero.

Check out my review of Minshull Street Crown Court - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Parma Ham

The story I am writing now has started on a train. At first, it was a conversation between me and two colleagues about my writing, and one of them asked me to write a story for him. I have written poems for people before, but honestly, I cannot remember anyone ever asking me to write a story for them. It was a great opportunity and challenge, and I wanted to respond to it. 


A few days later I was on the train again, with the same colleague, and I asked him what story he wanted me to write. He didn't think I'd take him seriously, I suspect, but we got through some questions, and I had a bare idea for the story. And here is the first chapter that was written on the way from Manchester to Rochdale and back on January 17th, 2010. 


The story uses some of my day-to-day experiences and interactions, and the first chapter is a good example. Since I moved into the flat in May 2008, I've been in the protagonist's situation several times. And because I've got Italian friends, and because I and a few people I know love Italy and know the language (including the colleague who asked for the story), I decided to mix the English and Italian words and phrases. This is the reason why England is called Inghilterra. It will also allow to avoid making places and people too recognisable. 


(As a matter of fact, apart from articles, essays and occasional poems and sketches, this is the first story I am writing in English from the start). 

Parma Ham. By Julie Delvaux.

Chapter 1.

It was an early morning in the distant land of Inghilterra.

The binman has just arrived to collect the garbage, and unless you were used to it, the sound of the garbage van would do a better job than any alarm clock. "Wheez! Pump! Wheez! Pump!" for exactly five minutes. And no snooze button to press.

The neighbours next door have just woken up in each other's arms, face to face, and, being a loving couple, they locked their lips and pushed their bodies together. Just as the sun rises above the horizon, and the bin rises to be emptied, so was rising the passion of the neighbours.

The cars were pouring out into the streets, and in a short while the rain started pouring also, as it happens so often in Inghilterra. Soon the whole of the island was like a windscreen of a car covered with drops and lines of rain that ran endlessly in all directions.

The female neighbour moaned loudly, like a driver who forgot to slow down at the red light and had to push the brakes. And in the room next door woke up signor Dario di Biassi. And he was very annoyed at the woman driver. He even murmured "bloody hell" with a little hint of Italian accent.

For a moment he stared at the rose pattern of a dark curtain, in a vain hope to fall back asleep. It was his fifth day in Inghilterra, he still felt jet-lagged, and, God knows, he wanted to sleep. But the garbage van emptied the last bin and was speeding away, the rain outside was falling heavily on the steel window sill, and the female neighbour was now moaning almost ceaselessly, and the bed was squeaking in unison with her moans.

There was no chance signor di Biassi could fall back asleep in such terrible conditions.

Ever since he was born, he has always made the point of sleeping in complete silence. He would scream, while a baby, until the entire house fell motionless. When he grew up and went on to live on his own, he made sure his bedrooms were soundproof. Signor di Biassi believed in the benevolence of a good night sleep, and with his job it was paramount to sleep well and not to be suddenly awoken.

Alas, in Inghilterra signor di Biassi could not have the luxury of soundproofing his bedroom. And so now he laid in his bed on his back, in astonishment, listening to the cacophony of noises marching into his head. Cars, raindrops, moans, squeaks... Di Biassi remembered that he had to spend in Inghilterra the next twenty days, and his face became gray and very sober. When the couple next door came, and the woman screamed, di Biassi raised his eyes to the ceiling, as if trying to look into God's eyes, and said to himself:

"Only twenty days left. I will cope".

Suddenly a police car rushed down the street, with the siren full on, and di Biassi turned pale for a moment. He knew he had to be careful, but police cars seemed to be rushing past his house all too often. And di Biassi didn't feel comfortable because of it.

Neither would anyone of us, if we were a member of the Milanese mafia sent to Inghilterra with a mission.

07 February 2010

Qype: Woodstock Pub in Manchester



Manchester - Eating & Drinking - Pubs & Bars - Pubs


In case you didn't know, Woodstock is not only a favourite meeting&drinking venue, but is a place to hold inspired academic discussions. So, if you are looking for a cosy space where to debate the future of capitalism or the latest discoveries in nuclear science over a pint of beer, head to West Didsbury.

Woodstock is located just off Barlow Moor Road and is all but hidden from the view in summer. In these warm summery evenings it is like the proverbial secret garden, and indeed Woodstock's beer garden is very lovely. But the real discoveries still await you inside. The interior offers a peculiar mix of old architecture and furniture and some modern decorations. The comfy sofas, ottomans, and armchairs are just the order for a romantic evening in candlelight or a friendly get-together by the chimney.

The selection of beverages is good, and the food is delicious. The menu ranges from traditional English burgers to more sophisticated fish and meat dishes, and deserts are lip-smacking! The place is certainly one of the must-visits in Manchester, and, unless you are a resident, is a good reason to take a bus to West Didsbury.

Check out my review of Woodstock Pub - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Qype: Magma in Manchester



Manchester - Shopping - Books - Shopping - Gifts & Cards


Now, you're all about Art, Design, Fashion, Advertising, and Cinema. You are after cool magazines, unique comic strips, and clever useful books. As you walk in the busy Oldham St in the iconic Northern Quarter, you are ready to take a plunge into the depths of this small and funky bookstore, to emerge imbued with all sorts of creative ideas.

This may sound very personal, but this is exactly how I feel every time I visit MAGMA. The first few times I was literally glued to the shelves with Fashion magazines, browsing through the Italian Vogue. During my next visits I flicked through the Gaiman&McKean's Sandman comic strips and contemplated buying a book of film-making. I bought presents for my friends there, but my life-changing buys at MAGMA were Paul Arden's best-sellers. And they also sell great postcards and gifts.

Enough to say, this is the place to go if you are after new food for thought and eye. The fact that it is located in a short walk from the quaint Nexus Art Cafe or the trendy Teacup makes MAGMA all the more appealing. You bought your books or magazines, why wait till you get home, to have a read? The very thought seems very bohemian to me..

Check out my review of Magma - I am juliedelvaux - on Qype

Success, Power of Thought, and Goal Setting

I've written previously that I preferred "goals" to "ambitions". I think it was in 2007, and by 2010 my point of view has changed only slightly. I'll never stop thinking about goals, but, speaking of ambitions, my ambition is my success. And to spare you my own musings, as well as to give you some food for thought, here is a quote from Pablo Picasso:

Success is something very important! It has often been said that the artist should work for himself, for the 'love of art', so to speak, and despise success. That is wrong! An artist needs success. And not only to live on, but also to be able to create. Even a rich painter needs success. Only a few people understand anything about art, and a feeling for painting has not been given to everyone. Most people judge art by its success. So why leave success to the "success painters"? Every generation has had theirs. But where is it written that success should always belong to those who flatter the public? I wanted to prove that you can be successful in spite of everything and everyone, without compromising oneself. Do you know what? My success as a young painter has been my protective wall. My Blue and Rose periods were the screen, behind which I felt secure.

In one of the most recent posts on this blog I mentioned some difficulties that were to do with the previous experience at different workplaces. I've found the way to overcome this experience by turning to the years when I was at my absolute best - with all consequences. On occasion I have to go back over 13 years, but it is that very "protective wall" that Picasso speaks about. A massive achievement happened in 1997, then again in 2006, and to this day those are some of the things I am hugely proud of.

Of course, as Einstein put it, the older we grow the more narrow-minded we become, and this diminishes the chances of success. For this reason it is twice as important to continuously revisit those great achievements because deep within us we will still possess this reservoir of self-belief and passion that made those achievements possible.

Another thing that is very close to self-belief, passion, and the desire to succeed is the power of thinking. I am sure a lot of us have experienced moments when our thoughts suddenly materialised. Whether those were good or bad things depends on what we were thinking about. I am glad to say that the opportunity I have wanted for myself since 2008 is now there. I wanted to travel regularly, to meet new people, to be creative, to be rewarded, to be successful, and now I have it all, and there will be more. But it requires some adjustments in lifestyle, which is the reason why there was a pause in blogging since the end of January.

And now to goals. As you might know, I used to blog in Russian over at LiveJournal since 2007. Some observations that I made towards the end of 2009 made me decide to make my LJ private and to continue the adventure here. My goal is very simple: with a nod from Google under the belt, by the end of 2010 I want to be the best multilingual blogger.

Another goal, still related to this blog, is to catch up on everything I wanted to post because there is a lot.

I will also be promoting some of the work I am doing for another site this month. The work is paid, but I am sure you will be glad to follow the links to short, witty articles about Manchester (with photos, of course!)

A project I started last year will now continue because this is my huge goal. It involves a life-long interest in Literature, Cinema, and Translation. I vowed to do it, and now I have every opportunity to accomplish it.

I know I said that I didn't want to write about the goals, and I'm not reneging on my promise. I didn't say what the goals are, except for one or two, and the good news is that they are not just for this month.

Finally, because my work doesn't tire my brain, there is a plenty of room for creativity, and I will make sure I share some of the results with you.

In the end, my main message is that we can always achieve things we really want. To quote Paul Arden,

I WISH means: wouldn't it be nice if...
If you always make the right decision, the safe decision, the one most people make, you will be the same as everyone else. 
Always wishing life was different. 


I WANT means: if I want it enough I will get it. 
Getting what you want means making the decisions you need to make to get what you want. 
Not the decisions those around you think you should make. 
Making the safe decision is dull, predictable and leads nowhere new. 
The unsafe decision causes you to think and respond in a way you hadn't thought of. 
And that thought will lead to other thoughts which will help you achieve what you want. 
Start taking bad decisions and it will take you to a place where others only dream of being. 


The photo of Pablo Picasso is courtesy of Masterworksfineart.com.

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